Bearded bald man in a denim shirt and gray apron holding a wooden stick against a green floral wallpaper background.

AMERICAN
SFOGLINO

Seal of James Beard Foundation 2020 Award Winner featuring a portrait of James Beard.

A master class in handmade pasta

The hardest Friday night reservation to score in LA isn’t a Michelin-rated temple of cuisine, it’s for a handmade pasta joint by the beach. The mastermind is Evan Funke — part historian, part chef, part nonna, part ninja — who has distinguished himself with a lovingly maniacal focus on preserving a dying art: pasta made strictly by hand. I took on my favorite role of photographer / kitchen apprentice to help bring Evan’s masterclass to life. The photography was recognized with the 2020 James Beard Award.

Restaurant interior showing chefs preparing food behind glass walls while diners sit at tables in dim lighting.
Open cookbook showing a person's hand lifting a sheet of yellow pasta dough on a wooden surface with text about a handmade pasta master class.
Open book showing step-by-step photos of hands rolling out dough with a rolling pin on a wooden surface dusted with flour.
Open cookbook showing overhead view of hands preparing dough on a wooden surface dusted with flour next to a rolling pin.
Open cookbook showing a Pappardelle pasta recipe on the left page and a close-up image of folded pasta dough on the right page.
Open book showing acknowledgments text on the right page and a photo of two men working with dough on the left page against a green floral background.

A master class in handmade pasta

To capture a process I need to understand the process; to understand it, I need to do it. Before I took a single shot, Evan and I rolled a sfoglia together.

Tattooed arms dusting flour while rolling out dough with a rolling pin on a wooden surface.
Hands folding a small piece of yellow paper against a black background.

Look closely... wherever two layers of pasta meet, they must be pressed so they 'eat' as one layer

Close-up of uncooked fresh yellow pasta sheets layered closely together.
Plate of tagliatelle pasta with ragu sauce and grated cheese.
Tattooed person in denim shirt and apron stretching yellow dough with a rolling pin over a floured surface.
Close-up of green spinach pasta dough twisted with white flour dusted on top.
Hand mixing bright green spinach dough with flour on a wooden surface.
Bearded man with tattoos holding two pieces of green spinach bread dough in his hands over a wooden surface.

Working with Evan I got the feeling I was either in class or in the forest watching a bear pet butterflies

Close-up of two hands folding green dough around meat filling, preparing dumplings or similar food.
Close-up of hands gently pinching a small green leaf against a black background.
Close-up of two hands shaping a green dumpling against a black background.
Two hands folding a green triangular-shaped pasta against a black background.
Two hands shaping green pasta dough against a black background.
Hand holding a green fortune cookie against a black background.
Bearded man in denim shirt and apron rolling dough with a wooden rolling pin on a floured table against green floral wallpaper.
Open book showing a page with large yellow text 'Pappardelle' and a close-up image of hands stretching fresh pasta dough.
Open cookbook showing a step-by-step photo guide of hands making stuffed pasta from dough squares to folded shapes.
Open cookbook showing a photo of tortellini pasta in broth on the left page and a tortellini in meat broth recipe with cooking instructions on the right page.
Open book showing a close-up image of pasta sheets with text reading 'Part 2: Pasta Shapes & Dishes'.
Open cookbook displaying a recipe for Caramelle ai Carciofi with detailed instructions on the left page and a plated dish of pasta with yellow sauce and artichokes on the right page.
Bearded man holding a small yellow origami bird close to his right eye.
Close-up of farfalle pasta with green peas and diced ham in creamy sauce.
Tattooed hand reaching to a wooden plate with a slice of baked lasagna featuring a crispy top layer.

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